Since there's apparently lots of P-3ATs affected by the "Smiley" bullets - resulting from the feedramp hitting the round in the mag as it completes it's rearward travel - I figured I outta show what I did to my own, first P-3AT.

I noticed the Smileys a couple of hundred rounds into shooting, and took a look at the inside. Taking the slide off, then re-inserting the takedown pin, a full magazine, and fitting the barrel into place, it can be easily seen how the ramp impacts the bullet at the end of it's travel.

Take a look at the first pic, the bottom of the barrel/ramp:

Note how the cut forms a nearly perfect semi-circle in the ramp, leaving plenty of room at the corners of the ramp.

Now, here's a look at what the mod should look like from the back:

I did all the work with needle files, not a Dremel; it'd be easy to take too much metal off. Notice that the blending of the cut into the surface of the ramp involves carefully filing a compound curve.

Now, here's my obligatory disclaimer:

I CHOSE to do this to my pistol. It's offered here only for those who are concerned that their bullets may be pushed back into the case by the feedramp, dangerously increasing pressure.

In other words, I'll use the old standby, that "This information is for educational purposes only".

Whether you choose to do it is entirely up to you, of course. I've not heard of the pistol malfunctioning because of the ramp hitting the bullet, so it's most definitely NOT necessary to do to ensure reliable function! But, if you're concerned that it may deform the shape of your hollowpoints (MY reason, mainly), I can say that it definitely DOESN'T harm your barrel or reduce reliability. In fact, the cut and subsequent blending into the ramp itself is completely below the spot where the bullet begins it's trip up the ramp.

If you do the mod, I suggest starting with a small notch in the center of the end of the ramp, then using a half-round file to simply make the bottom of the ramp look like the picture. Then pack the chamber area with some spare leather to prevent scratching, and file the flat curve into a smooth transition into the ramp, with the same needle file. Finish with a fluff & buff, using 220, 400, then 600 grit paper.

Just thought I'd let ya'll see what I did to mine...

Flyer